86% matchAnn Demeulemeester
Gothic-romantic black tailoring and leather, still running
What changes: Softer, more romantic drape; womenswear-led and ongoing
Brand profile
Alexandre Plokhov
Defunct Paris-shown menswear label from designer Alexandre Plokhov, known for severe black tailoring, leather outerwear and military-gothic detailing.
New York CityOrigin
MenswearFocus
Avant-gardeStyle
$$$$Price
4 brands like Alexandre Plokhov like Ann Demeulemeester, Helmut Lang, The Viridi-Anne →
What to know about Alexandre Plokhov
The line closed in 2015
Plokhov wound the label down to become menswear design director at Helmut Lang, so anything you find dates from roughly 2010 to 2015 and exists only secondhand.
Black, sharp and severe
The output was precisely cut tailoring and leather outerwear in near-total black, with military and gothic references carried over from Plokhov's earlier label, Cloak.
A designer CV behind it
Plokhov founded Cloak and ran menswear at Gianni Versace before this line, which was made in Italy and shown in Paris — hence the high price tier.
If you like Alexandre Plokhov
86% match
84% matchHelmut Lang
Deconstructed minimalism Plokhov himself later designed for
What changes: Cooler technical minimalism rather than gothic-military severity
80% matchThe Viridi-Anne
Garment-dyed all-black layering with cut-focused severity
What changes: Japanese layering and washed textures over sharp Italian tailoring
74% matchYohji Yamamoto
The foundational all-black avant-garde tailoring reference
What changes: Oversized volume and drape instead of tight, severe cuts
Brand facts
Alexandre Plokhov was the eponymous menswear label of the Russian-born American designer who previously founded Cloak and led menswear at Gianni Versace. Launched around 2010 and produced in Italy, it showed in Paris and dealt in severe, precisely cut tailoring, leather outerwear and near-total black palettes, with military and gothic references carried over from Cloak. The line wound down by 2015 when Plokhov became menswear design director at Helmut Lang; he later founded Nomenklatura Studio (2018-22) and now teaches fashion at SCAD.
- Founded
- 2010
- Origin
- New York City, United States
- Made in
- Italy, United States
- Price
- $$$$
- Focus
- Menswear
- Facts checked
- September 2026
- Styles
- Avant-garde, Punk / Grunge / Goth, Minimalist / Contemporary