Brand profile

Mastermind

Tokyo luxury streetwear label founded in 1997 by Masaaki Homma, known for its skull-and-crossbones motif and all-black, Japan-made menswear.

TokyoOrigin
MenswearFocus
StreetwearStyle
$$$$Price

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A man wearing a black skulls Mastermind jacket

What to know about Mastermind

One motif, one colour

Nearly everything is jet black and built around a skull-and-crossbones graphic, applied across tees, hoodies, leather and technical outerwear, denim and sneakers.

You pay for Japanese making

Production stays in Japan and tags name the people who made the garment, which is where the luxury pricing on a graphic tee or hoodie comes from.

Two lines, not one

The original mastermind JAPAN sits above mastermind WORLD, a globally distributed diffusion line added in 2017 after founder Masaaki Homma revived the label.

Known forHoodies & sweatshirtsT-shirts & graphic tees

How Mastermind fits

Overall fit

runs small

Most shoppers report Japanese sizing that runs roughly one size smaller than US/EU equivalents, with mastermind WORLD sitting slightly closer to international sizing than the main JAPAN line.

Tip: Size up one from your usual US/EU size, especially on mastermind JAPAN main-line pieces, and consider two sizes up if you want an oversized look.

Japanese sizingsize up oneruns smallshort in the bodyWORLD fits closer to US sizing

Medium confidence · based on 9 sources

By category

CategoryRunsShapeSize advice
Trousers & pantsslightly smallslim to tapered, occasionally wide-leg on newer technical piecesSize up one if you prefer room through the thigh and seat.
Hoodies & sweatshirtsslightly smallregular to slightly relaxed, with heavier loopback pieces reading boxierSize up one for a comfortable layering fit; stay true to size only if you like a compact hoodie.
Jeans & denimslightly smallslim to straight, Japanese-denim cutConsider one size up in the waist if between sizes, and expect a slim leg.
Jacketsruns smallslim, fashion-cut shoulders and chest on leather and technical outerwearSize up one, and check shoulder and bicep room if you plan to layer a hoodie underneath.
T-shirts & graphic teesruns smallslim to regular; some recent graphic tees are deliberately boxyTake one size up from your usual tee size unless you specifically want a cropped, close fit.
Shirts & overshirtsruns smallslim through chest and waistSize up one from your usual shirt size for a normal, non-clinging fit.

Directional fit consensus summarized from public sources with AI — a starting point, not a guarantee. Confirm with the product's own measurements before buying.

Mastermind fit questions

Does Mastermind run big or small?

Mastermind runs small. Size up one from your usual US/EU size, especially on mastermind JAPAN main-line pieces, and consider two sizes up if you want an oversized look. Most shoppers report Japanese sizing that runs roughly one size smaller than US/EU equivalents, with mastermind WORLD sitting slightly closer to international sizing than the main JAPAN line.

How does Mastermind fit?

Most shoppers report Japanese sizing that runs roughly one size smaller than US/EU equivalents, with mastermind WORLD sitting slightly closer to international sizing than the main JAPAN line. Overall shape: generally slim to regular through the body, with newer mastermind WORLD graphic pieces cut boxier and more relaxed.

How do Mastermind trousers & pants fit?

Mastermind trousers & pants fits slightly small. Size up one if you prefer room through the thigh and seat. Shape: slim to tapered, occasionally wide-leg on newer technical pieces.

How do Mastermind hoodies & sweatshirts fit?

Mastermind hoodies & sweatshirts fits slightly small. Size up one for a comfortable layering fit; stay true to size only if you like a compact hoodie. Shape: regular to slightly relaxed, with heavier loopback pieces reading boxier.

How do Mastermind jeans & denim fit?

Mastermind jeans & denim fits slightly small. Consider one size up in the waist if between sizes, and expect a slim leg. Shape: slim to straight, Japanese-denim cut.

Brand facts

mastermind JAPAN is a Tokyo label founded in 1997 by Masaaki Homma, a former Yohji Yamamoto employee who launched during Tokyo Fashion Week without formal fashion training. It builds jet-black, punk-leaning menswear around a skull-and-crossbones motif: graphic tees, hoodies, leather and technical outerwear, denim and sneakers, produced in Japan with tags naming the makers. Homma closed the line in 2013 and revived it, adding the globally distributed diffusion line mastermind WORLD in 2017. Recent partners include Dickies (FW25), Zero Halliburton, Vans Vault and adidas Originals.

Founded
1997
Origin
Tokyo, Japan
Made in
Japan
Price
$$$$
Focus
Menswear
Facts checked
August 2026
Styles
Streetwear, Punk / Grunge / Goth, Quiet luxury

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