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Looking to step up from Ann Demeulemeester? These 6 brands share the aesthetic but bring elevated materials, construction and a higher price tier — ranked by overall similarity.
Independent avant-garde label founded in Los Angeles in 1994 and now based in Paris, known for draped monochrome tailoring and chunky sneakers.
Why it's similar. Draped black tailoring, long shirts and outershirts, leather jackets and boots, cut for both men and women.
What changes. Heavier and more brutalist, with more jersey and leather and far less lace or romance.
Paris luxury house founded in 1988, known for deconstruction, blank numeric labels and Tabi split-toe boots; now led by Glenn Martens.
Why it's similar. Deconstructed tailoring, white and black shirting and split-toe Tabi boots.
What changes. More conceptual and ironic, with a bigger accessories business and less gothic mood.
Milan avant-garde label founded in 1995, making small-run experimental tailoring, leather outerwear and footwear sold through a handful of specialist, appointment-based stockists.
Why it's similar. Experimental leather and tailoring in a dark, hand-worked register.
What changes. Sold appointment-only through few stockists, and its current trading status is unconfirmed.
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Italian leather house from Pescia, Tuscany, known for hand-dyed, reverse-construction boots and soft unstructured bags.
Why it's similar. Dark, worn-in leather boots that answer the buckled-boot side of the wardrobe.
What changes. Footwear and bags only, so no tailoring or shirting.
Kering-owned London luxury house, now branded McQueen, pairing dark-romantic tailoring and skull motifs under creative director Seán McGirr.
Why it's similar. A dark-romantic tailoring route with sharp black cuts.
What changes. Mainly womenswear; current menswear shirts lean on logos, harnesses and skulls.
Berlin avant-garde label building anatomically sculpted, asymmetric garments and accessories by hand under its "Anfractuous Distortion" method.
Why it's similar. Hand-made asymmetric garments with sculpted, body-following cuts deliver the off-kilter drape that defines Ann Demeulemeester's layering.
What changes. More experimental and accessory-heavy, with less romantic shirting or clean pick-lapel tailoring.
Rick Owens, Maison Margiela, Carol Christian Poell lead our ranking. Looking to step up from Ann Demeulemeester? These 6 brands share the aesthetic but bring elevated materials, construction and a higher price tier — ranked by overall similarity.
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