90% matchRick Owens DRKSHDW
Both brands share a strong avant-garde style and dark, moody palettes. They both employ deconstructed, layered, and relaxed silhouettes.
UNDERCOVER
StyleAvant-gardePunk / Grunge / GothStreetwear
Known forJacketsOuterwear
UNDERCOVER is Jun Takahashi's Tokyo-based label, founded in 1993 and shown in Paris since 2002. It pairs deconstructed tailoring and patchwork knitwear with punk graphics, MA-1 bombers, leather jackets and nylon anoraks. Recent seasons draw on French plush artist Anne-Valérie Dupond, using wrinkled seams, inside-out fabrics and padded appliqués, and revisit Takahashi's 2004 collection for the label's 35th anniversary. Spring 2027 menswear references Belgian painter Michaël Borremans, adding cotton flak vests and primary-colour anoraks. Takahashi remains owner and designer, with no outside ownership changes reported.
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How UNDERCOVER fits
| Category | Runs | Shape | Length | Size advice | Confidence |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hoodies & sweatshirts | slightly small | relaxed but not tent-like; sleeves can feel snug for larger frames | regular | Size up one if you plan to layer or want the fuller silhouette seen on the runway. | low |
| Shirts & overshirts | runs small | slim through the chest with narrow shoulders, typical of Japanese pattern-making | regular | Size up one, and up two if you have broad shoulders or a fuller chest. | medium |
| Trousers & pants | runs small | varies from slim tailored cuts to intentionally wide, pleated runway silhouettes | often long enough to require hemming on shorter wearers | Check the waist measurement rather than the numeric size, and expect to go up one from your usual. | low |
| Jeans & denim | runs small | generally straight to slim, with occasional wide or worked-over conceptual pairs | regular to long | Size up one from your usual denim waist, as Japanese sizing tends to measure lean. | low |
| Jackets | mixed | deconstructed tailoring runs slim and narrow-shouldered while MA-1 bombers, leathers and anoraks are often cut boxy or oversized | regular; bombers sit shorter, coats longer | Size up for tailored jackets, but stay true to size on the bombers and anoraks, which are already generous. | medium |
| T-shirts & graphic tees | runs small | fairly straight to slightly boxy, though shoulders sit close | regular, occasionally a touch short in the body | Take one size up from your usual US size — most people land on a 3 or 4. | medium |
Does UNDERCOVER run big or small?
UNDERCOVER runs small. Most non-Japanese shoppers size up one from their usual (e.g. a US medium generally lands on a size 3), and up two if you want a genuinely roomy fit. UNDERCOVER uses Japanese numeric sizing (typically 1–4) that generally measures smaller than equivalent US/EU labelling, so most shoppers report needing one size up, though individual runway and outerwear pieces are cut deliberately oversized.
How does UNDERCOVER fit?
UNDERCOVER uses Japanese numeric sizing (typically 1–4) that generally measures smaller than equivalent US/EU labelling, so most shoppers report needing one size up, though individual runway and outerwear pieces are cut deliberately oversized. Overall shape: varies by piece — tailoring and shirting cut slim and narrow through the shoulder, while graphic tees, knitwear and outerwear skew boxy or intentionally oversized.
How do UNDERCOVER hoodies & sweatshirts fit?
UNDERCOVER hoodies & sweatshirts fits slightly small. Size up one if you plan to layer or want the fuller silhouette seen on the runway. Shape: relaxed but not tent-like; sleeves can feel snug for larger frames.
How do UNDERCOVER shirts & overshirts fit?
UNDERCOVER shirts & overshirts runs small. Size up one, and up two if you have broad shoulders or a fuller chest. Shape: slim through the chest with narrow shoulders, typical of Japanese pattern-making.
How do UNDERCOVER trousers & pants fit?
UNDERCOVER trousers & pants runs small. Check the waist measurement rather than the numeric size, and expect to go up one from your usual. Shape: varies from slim tailored cuts to intentionally wide, pleated runway silhouettes.
Directional fit consensus summarized from public sources with AI — a starting point, not a guarantee. Confirm with the product's own measurements before buying.
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