#1Universal Works
Independent Nottingham menswear label reworking British and mid-century workwear into relaxed, well-made staples like its Bakers Jacket and Aston trousers.
#1Independent Nottingham menswear label reworking British and mid-century workwear into relaxed, well-made staples like its Bakers Jacket and Aston trousers.
#2Copenhagen label blending streetwear, workwear and Scandinavian minimalism, known for clean silhouettes and technical GORE-TEX outerwear.
#3Seoul-based label founded in 2010, reworking American military, workwear and prep staples with Korean proportions and fabric detailing.
#4Los Angeles label founded in 2013 by Jerry Lorenzo, pairing oversized streetwear silhouettes with luxury fabrics and muted, neutral palettes.
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#5French label founded in 2011 by Alexandre Mattiussi, known for relaxed Parisian tailoring, knitwear and the Ami de Coeur logo.
#6Montreal design studio turned label making pared-back essentials and limited-run collaborations with New Balance, Reebok, Vans and A.P.C.
#7Japanese outdoor brand from Sanjo, Niigata, pairing titanium camp gear with technical apparel; taken private by Bain Capital and the founding family in 2024.
#8London menswear label founded in 2015, known for the Whiting overshirt and textured, slow-fashion pieces made from sustainably sourced fabrics.
#9Family-run Portuguese label making brushed cotton flannel and seasonal shirts in the old textile towns of northern Portugal.
#10Porto menswear label making Portuguese-produced shirts, striped tees and knitwear inspired by the Atlantic and its fishing traditions.
#11Beams Plus is the Tokyo-based heritage menswear line of retailer Beams, reworking classic American Ivy, workwear and military styles in Japan.
#12Hiroki Nakamura's Tokyo label applies heritage craft and natural dyes to Americana-rooted "future vintage" clothing and footwear such as the FBT moccasin-sneaker.
#13Paris label founded in 1987 by Jean Touitou, known for raw selvedge denim, Demi-Lune bags and understated, long-lasting wardrobe basics.
#14Munich menswear label founded in 2009, known for relaxed tailoring, overshirts and fine knitwear built around travel-inspired seasonal collections.
#15Needles is Keizo Shimizu's Nepenthes in-house label, reworking Americana and 1970s leisurewear, best known for its butterfly-logo velour track pants.
#16Copenhagen menswear label making relaxed, minimalist modern-casual staples in linen, organic cotton and wool since 2007.
"Overshirt" covers three different garments here, and the difference is weight. At the light end are shirt-weight layers: Portuguese Flannel's brushed cottons, corduroys and linens, made by a family firm in northern Portugal, and the roomy single-pocket Village shirt with urea buttons, which wears as a shirt with a tee underneath. NN07 works the same register in linen, organic cotton and wool, with easy, low-contrast pieces built to move between casual and dressed settings. La Paz, also from Porto, makes linen and cotton shirts in muted Atlantic tones.
The middle is where most buyers land: shirt jackets with enough room for a knit. Universal Works reworks British and mid-century workwear into relaxed staples — cotton twill, corduroy, Italian wool and fleece, including knitted overshirts — and is the reliable entry point at a mid price. Wax London's Whiting is the best-known single overshirt on this list, cut from sustainably sourced fabrics and joined by textured knitwear and camp-collar shirting. A Kind of Guise builds camp-collar and overshirt styles in Munich, produced largely in Europe, with a year-round Permanents line if you want a core piece rather than a seasonal print. Frizmworks approaches it from Seoul, reworking chore jackets and military issue with altered proportions — useful if you want volume without going oversized everywhere. Norse Projects and Beams Plus both apply clean, archive-driven shirting to the same idea, Copenhagen minimalism versus Japanese Ivy.
Snow Peak's flame-resistant Takibi workwear is the outdoor answer — genuinely technical, built for fire pits and cold, and now owned by Bain Capital with the founding Yamai family after a 2024 buyout. visvim sits at the top: hand-dyed indigo noragi and small-run heritage construction at very high prices. NEEDLES rebuilds vintage and patchwork shirting; Fear of God brings oversized silhouettes in heavy Italian-milled fabric. A.P.C. (majority-owned by L Catterton since 2023) and Ami Paris cover the pared-back Parisian version, while JJJJound's muted, low-branding drops suit anyone who wants the plainest possible layer.
Practical advice: size for what goes under. Shirt-weight styles fit close to a normal shirt size; workwear and Japanese cuts already carry room. Check the material each season — these brands rotate twill, cord, wool and fleece in the same silhouette, and construction is not identical across variants.
Three things: shirt-weight layers (Portuguese Flannel brushed cotton, NN07 linen), true overshirts with room for a knit (Universal Works, Wax London, A Kind of Guise), and heavier shirt jackets that work as light outerwear (Snow Peak Takibi, Frizmworks chore-style, Fear of God). The same brand often makes all three, so read the fabric before the name.
Wax London's Whiting. The London label founded in 2015 built its reputation on it, cut from sustainably sourced fabrics and offered in rotating materials — so confirm the specific variant, since construction and weight differ between them.
Universal Works, Wax London, Portuguese Flannel, Frizmworks and JJJJound sit in the mid tier. Norse Projects, NN07, La Paz, Beams Plus, A Kind of Guise, A.P.C., Ami Paris, Snow Peak and NEEDLES are mid-to-high, Fear of God is high, and visvim is the most expensive on the list.
disco is a directory, not a shop — buy from the brands directly or their stockists. Universal Works has stores in Nottingham and London plus around 300 wholesale accounts; Wax London sells direct and through END. and Liberty; Portuguese Flannel is at Mr Porter, Stag Provisions and Blue Owl Workshop; Norse Projects, Beams Plus and Snow Peak are at SSENSE and END.; NEEDLES is at Nepenthes in Tokyo, New York and London; visvim trades as F.I.L. and stocks Dover Street Market and Bergdorf Goodman. JJJJound sells in timed online drops only.
Two here changed hands: A.P.C. sold a controlling stake to L Catterton in 2023, with Jean Touitou still leading design, and Snow Peak was taken private in 2024 by Bain Capital with the founding family. Both are still producing and widely stocked.